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 Full Suspension Bicycle Buying Guide

Full Suspension Bicycle Buying Guide



The Basics

Full suspension mountain bicycles have seen great advancements over the last few years and are now generally regarded as the masters of downhill mountain biking. Chances are, if you are considering a full suspension mountain bike, you’ve already had some experience at mountain biking. While the cost of rear suspension is coming down, unless money is no object, a good quality full-suspension mountain bike is generally still too expensive and requires too much maintenance for the novice rider. We’d recommend that a first timer, especially one on a limited budget, opts for a hardtail mountain bike instead. These bikes, as the name suggests, offer front fork suspension but no rear suspension. Full suspension (or dual suspension) mountain bikes, on the other hand, are equipped with both front fork and rear suspension integrated into the bike's frame. Full suspension mountain bikes are designed to cope with the roughest cross-country terrain and allow you to ride longer and harder. The rear suspension increases comfort, absorbing all the bumps and bounces so your body doesn't have to. This also translates to providing greater control over the rockiest, most rugged trails you can find.

Aside from price, there are other compromises to be aware of when selecting a full suspension over a hardtail. Full-suspension bikes, except for the extremely expensive ones, are heavier than their hardtail counterparts. The additional rear suspension will add at least a couple of pounds to the overall weight of a bike. For casual mountain biking that isn’t such a big deal. If you race and/or ride a lot of uphill courses, though, those extra couple of pounds could make all the difference. The energy lost in the rear suspension also means that a full suspension bike is slower at climbing than a hardtail.

If all this is starting to sound as if we are not big fans of full suspension bikes, it couldn’t be further from the truth. Winning races apart, we feel that the extra comfort offered by a full suspension mountain bike, along with improved downhill speed and greater control, are definitely worth the extra weight on those uphill climbs. Also, technological advancements have reduced some of the advantages that hardtails enjoy over full suspension bikes. For example, until recently if you wanted to ride smooth tracks or use your mountain bike to ride on pavement as well as off-road, a hardtail would always be the better option. Now, some bike manufacturers offer suspension lock-outs on their full suspension bikes. This gives you the option of locking out the rear suspension, effectively providing a ride the same as a hardtail mountain bike. This is a great option for smooth trail riding or uphill climbs.

With a full or dual suspension bike there is also the additional maintenance to consider--That rear shock is not going to service itself. But then as every off-road biker knows, cleaning and maintaining your ride is all part of the sport of mountain biking. If you don’t have the time or the budget to maintain the extra features of a full suspension bike, then it may be wiser to choose a hardtail instead. But be warned: no mountain biker gets away with never breaking out the degreaser or lubing the chain regularly.

Apart from the rear suspension, there are plenty of other features that have been advanced on full suspension mountain bikes. Frame materials such as aluminum, carbon fiber, steel and titanium, offer excellent performance and solid ride quality. As a rough guide, the lighter the frame material, the more expensive the bike will be. Replaceable rear derailleur hangers mean that your bike won't be trashed if the rear derailleur gets smashed. Most drivetrains are at least 21-speed now, although 27-speed is certainly better, and brakes are of better quality than they have ever been. There is good news for women riders as well: As well as their standard lines, many mountain bike manufacturers also offer full suspension bikes specifically designed to accommodate women, with smaller frames and revised features such as wider saddles for greater support.

How to Shop

As with any other feature of mountain bikes, the rear suspension system of a full suspension bike varies according to design and manufacturer. Each offers different riding characteristics so it is important to test drive a bike to make sure it suits your riding style and the type of mountain biking you’re looking to pursue. At first glance, the range of bike frames, parts and accessories can seem a little daunting. The key is to establish exactly how you intend to use your full suspension mountain bike, along with the budget you can afford. You can then narrow down your selection to just the bikes and the accessories that you need to enjoy the mountain trails you intend to use. After all, there is no point in spending money purchasing a lot of appealing but ultimately unnecessary extras.

Regardless of whether you are shopping for a full suspension or a hardtail mountain bike, getting a great deal on your new buy is not just about knowing how to shop but also when to shop. The prices of mountain bikes can vary throughout the year. The most popular time to buy a new bike is in the spring or summer, so if you can wait until fall or winter when sales dip you are more likely to get a good deal. If you are new to the sport of mountain biking or on a restricted budget then there is no reason why you have to choose the latest model. Providing it still matches your needs, you can save money by going for last year’s model instead.

The first factor to consider when shopping for a full suspension mountain bike is the frame. Steel and aluminum are the most affordable and common materials used to construct the frame, while carbon and titanium are the most expensive. Titanium frames are scratch resistant and impermeable to rust and corrosion and since they are usually polished instead of painted, there is no paint job to maintain.

As well as the rear suspension, it is just as important to examine the front fork on a full suspension bike as it is on a hardtail. Rock Shox, Manitou, Marzocchi, and Fox consistently make the best forks. A second-tier of makers consists of RST, SR-Suntour and other off-brands. If faced with two otherwise equal bikes, go with the one with a first-tier fork. Cannondale specs its own brand called Headshok. Air-sprung forks are lighter and all of them can be tuned using the air pressure, but coil-spring forks usually feel nicer and offer greater durability. Travel is noted in millimeters, and means the amount that the wheel moves up and down. An 80mm travel suspension fork moves up and down 80mm, or 3 inches.

Brakes on a full suspension mountain bicycle are a straight choice between linear-pull rim brakes or disc brakes. Rim brakes are the traditional type of bicycle brakes that rub on the rim to stop the bike. Linear-pull rim brakes are not as powerful as disc brakes and gradually wear down the rim. They are much less expensive than disc brakes, though, and can be far easier to work on and find parts for. Disc brakes work more like car brakes and are generally more powerful, although certain brands of cable-actuated discs have their problems. The best disc systems are fully hydraulic, but are expensive. If you can afford hydraulic disc brakes, these are your best choice because they perform better in wet and muddy conditions and won’t wear down the rims. In terms of manufacturers to look for, you can’t go wrong with Shimano, Avid, SRAM, Hayes, and Magura brakes. Most of the others are good too, but these brands are the gold standard. If you opt for rim brakes, consider a rim with a machined sidewall. This braking surface can dramatically improve braking performance and rim life.

Most full suspension mountain bikes come with a 21, 24 or 27-speed drivetrain. Shimano and SRAM are the two principal drivetrain makers. Shimano goes, from top to bottom: XTR, XT, LX, Deore, Alivio, and Acera; all but the latter two are 27-speeds. SRAM runs 9.0SL, 9.0, 7.0, and 5.0; 7.0 and 5.0 are 24-speed drivetrains.

Tires are another important consideration for a full suspension mountain bike. Wire-bead, not foldable, tires are considerably heavier than their foldable Kevlar counterparts. Because rotating weight is the most important on a bike, getting lighter threads can really lighten a bike and improve performance. This is important on any mountain bike, but especially on a full suspension model that is already carrying a few extra pounds of weight with the rear suspension. Tubeless tires are found on more expensive mountain bikes. They perform better than standard tires and resist pinch flats so you can cycle on a lower tire pressure, which provides better traction and a more comfortable ride. The downside is that flats in a tubeless tire are harder to fix than a standard tire.

As with any mountain bike, it is important to test ride as many full suspension mountain bicycles in your price range as possible. You want to find a bike that is comfortable for your height and weight and also one that fits your riding style. Features such as seats are a personal preference. The important thing is to find a seat that feels comfortable to you. Once you’ve selected the right full suspension mountain bike, compare prices online with those from specialist bike shops. Before you hit the trails, you’ll also need a quality bicycle helmet, gloves, shorts, a water bottle and a trail repair kit. Then you’ll be all set to hit the roughest trails safe in the knowledge that the full suspension mountain bicycle beneath you can handle just about anything you throw in its way.




Glossary

Brakes
Mountain bikes feature linear-pull (also known as V brakes) rim brakes (a strong version of the cantilever brake) or disc brakes. Discs may be either mechanical (traditional cable-pull) or hydraulic (a closed line is filled with hydraulic fluid that acts on the brake pistons when the lever is pulled). Hydraulic discs are the most powerful, but also heavier, expensive, and not very user-serviceable. Mechanical discs represent a good mix between the power of a disc and the adjustability of a rim brake. Rim brakes are the lightest and easiest to maintain. They are plenty powerful but their performance suffers in bad weather. All road bikes feature dual-pivot caliper sidepull brakes; a few of the newer flat-bar road bikes use linear-pull brakes.


Clipless Pedals
Many bikes sold today feature clipless pedals. These are specially designed to work with cycling shoes, which feature stiffer soles for better power transfer and riding comfort. They work like ski bindings: step down to click in, twist sideways to click out (of course, they're much easier to release than ski bindings). They take a bit of getting used to, and we recommend practicing with them in your neighborhood first, but they are vastly superior to platform or clip-and-strap models.


Gearing
Bike gearing is the number of cogs in the back times the number of chainrings in the front. Nine in the back, three up front? That's a 27-speed drivetrain. Cranksets are referred to as double or triple by the number of chainrings they have.


Quick-Release
A no-tools closure that holds the wheels, and on some bikes, the seatpost. It uses a cam-style closure rather than a twist. It is extremely important to know how to use these properly. If you don't know, ask the shop to show you; it's quite simple and the difference between safe riding and a nasty, avoidable accident.


Shifting
All shifting today is integrated with the brake levers. For mountain bikes, your options are push-pull trigger-style shifters or motorcycle-throttle-style twist shifters.




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