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 Car Speaker Buying Guide

Car Speaker Buying Guide



The Basics: Car Speakers

Upgrading the speakers in your car is perhaps the easiest and most popular mobile entertainment improvement possible. Due to the popularity of this upgrade, you'll find more choices than any of the other categories. Just walk into any car audio specialist and you'll see the vast array of options. The speakers that come in most cars are usually not quite top of the line, although many automobile manufacturers have recognized the importance of good speaker design, so they are using some really good components as an incentive for the entire automobile purchase.

Subwoofers are the most immediately evident improvement one could make to an automobile's sound system. The speakers that most manufacturers install in their cars are too small to properly and accurately produce low bass frequencies. In this case, size does matter. Speaker size does dictate the volume and ranges of frequencies it will be able to produce. However, a driver that is too large might take too long to react to the demands of music--they don't have an accurate transient response.

Subwoofers are available in two forms--raw and enclosed. An enclosed subwoofer consists of a driver mounted in a box, or it can refer to a band-pass box. A raw subwoofer is just the driver--a speaker cone suspended in a "spider," the metal frame that holds the speaker. The motor consists of the voice-coil and magnet. Enclosed subwoofers are typically unpowered, so you'll need a channel of amplification. However, there are some enclosed systems that include an amplifier specifically designed for the subwoofer component, which takes a lot of guesswork out of the equation.

How to Shop

"Drop-ins" are designed to fit exactly in the cutout spaces used by the factory speakers. This eliminates the need to alter the interior of your car in any way (ideal for a leased vehicle) and installers can usually incorporate the existing speaker grilles for a truly stealthy look. This is probably the easiest option for do-it-yourselfers. Simply remove the speaker grille, unscrew and remove the original speaker, disconnect the speaker wires, and connect and attach the new speaker. If you're planning on a more intrusive upgrade, most cars have additional speaker cutouts (for upgraded factory systems) hidden in a variety of locations throughout the interior frame. Any good installer will know where they all are. Many audio manufacturers design speakers in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit a variety of factory cutouts. Some retailers have a detailed listing of what speakers can be placed in what cars using cutouts or to use as drop-ins.

Once you've determined where you want speakers, you'll need to determine what kind to get. Replacement speakers come in two basic designs: coaxial or component. A coaxial speaker has the tweeter suspended over the woofer. A typically more expensive component speaker system consists of a separate woofer and a tweeter that can be positioned for a more accurate high-end response and a wider stereo image. They usually come with the necessary crossover electronics. Although usually considered a separate upgrade, you can also add a subwoofer.

Depending on what other components you are using, you should look at the sensitivity rating of the speakers. This indicates how efficiently the speaker handles the power that is supplied by your amplifier or head unit. Also called an efficiency rating, the higher the number, the louder your speakers can play given the same amount of amplification.




Glossary

Bass Reflex
A term referring to a vented speaker enclosure that produces an enhanced low-frequency response.


Biamplification
A system that uses separate circuits of amplification to feed the individual speaker components.


Distortion
This is a measurement of the deviation from the original signal to the reproduced signal. Distortion is a harsh sounding artifact that alters, in a negative way, the signal.


Driver
The element of a speaker that actually produces the sound.


Dynamic Range
The difference between the loudest peak and softest passage. It can also refer to the spectrum between the edge of distortion at the high end of a product's performance and the product's noise floor.


Frequency Response
Also listed as Frequency range, is the spectrum of frequencies produced by a product, within a certain tolerance. For example, a frequency response of 30Hz to 18kHz (+/- 3dB) means a product produces all frequencies from 30Hz to 18kHz without dropping or peaking three decibels. The signal below and above that range does drop off more than 3dB, so the range is really the usable spectrum of sound.


Head Unit
The usable part of a component that is mounted in the dashboard is commonly referred to as a head unit. It controls the components, either internally or remotely installed, such as a changer mounted in the glove compartment or trunk.


Impedance
Impedance is commonly listed from 4 to 8 ohms, with some ranging from 2 to 16 ohms. This is a technical description of the amount of inductive resistance a speaker offers to the flow of electrical signals from a receiver. Under normal circumstances, impedance bears no relation to sound quality, but many receivers need a minimum of 4 ohms to work properly. A good receiver may work with 2 ohms, but other receivers or amplifiers will automatically shut off or blow a fuse. If you intend to use two pairs of speakers in parallel from the same terminals, choose loudspeakers rated at least 8 ohms. Also note that speaker impedance ratings are nominal, meaning that a speaker may actually fall below its rated impedance at some frequencies.


OEM (original equipment manufacturer)
This refers to the factory-installed system that comes with a car. Many car manufacturers are using name brand products, either standard or part of an upgrade package.


Power requirements
Different speakers take advantage of different physical properties to produce sound. Too much power can damage speakers, but speaker ratings and amplifier ratings don't always tell the whole story. Speakers rated at 100 watts maximum may safely be powered by a 300-watt amplifier, but if you force all 300 watts into the speaker, the sound will cause you pain and damage the speakers. Too little power can also damage a speaker. If you try to play a low-powered amplifier too loudly it can distort the sound waves, and this distortion can destroy a speaker. Power ratings are listed as either "Peak" or "RMS" (Root Mean Square.) Peak listing in the amount of power the equipment can handle momentarily--a sharp drum hit, for example. RMS is a better indication of the overall performance, since it is a measurement of the average sustained power.


Sensitivity
Also referred to efficiency. This is a measure of how effectively a speaker can convert electrical power from an amplifier into acoustic sound energy. The higher this number, the more sound you will get at a given volume setting. This is typically measured from one meter away from the speaker with an input signal of 2.83 volts (1 watt at 8 ohms) which results in a sound pressure level, listed in decibels.


Subwoofer
A large speaker component that produces extremely low-frequency signals, usually below 180Hz.


Surround Sound
This covers many different formats that play sound through multiple speakers to simulate the natural sounds from many locations.


Tweeter
The small speaker responsible for conveying upper high-end (treble) sound frequencies.


Two-way Speaker
A speaker that consists of two drivers: one large woofer to produce the lower frequencies and a small tweeter that produces the high frequencies.


Woofer
The driver or speaker component containing a large cone that produces the low (bass) to mid frequencies




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meta d: Car speakers are an easy upgrade if you want to improve the sound in your vehicle. Read about speakers and subwoofers in Consumer Guide’s Car Speakers Buying Guide.

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